TL;DR: The Amalfi Coast is best experienced off-season (April-May or October) to avoid the summer crush. Self-drive is challenging (narrow cliffside roads,no parking) — use the SITA bus (€2-3/trip) or hire a driver (€300-400/day). Positano is the most beautiful but most expensive. Ravello has the best views and fewer crowds. Capri day trip (€35 ferry) is essential. Accommodation books up 4-6 months in summer.
The Amalfi Coast is 50km of sheer coastal cliffs dropping into the Tyrrhenian Sea, punctuated by pastel-colored villages stacked impossibly on the rocks. It’s been attracting artists, writers, and celebrities since the Grand Tour era, and today it’s one of Europe’s most-visited coastlines. Here’s how to do it right.
The Road: Why Driving Here Is Challenging
The SS163 “Amalfitana” is a narrow coastal road with a reputation. In peak season (July-August), it becomes a slow-moving parking lot. The road is barely wide enough for two small cars to pass, and tour buses are a constant hazard.
Should you drive? Only if:
- You’re visiting off-season (April-May or October)
- You’re comfortable with narrow roads and Italian driving
- Your accommodation has guaranteed parking
Otherwise, use the SITA bus (€2.30 per ride, runs every 30 minutes between Sorrento and Salerno) or hire a private driver (€300-400/day for a full day, book through your hotel).
Positano: The Iconic Village
Positano is the most photographed village on the Amalfi Coast—the colorful houses stacked up from the beach like a cascade of pastel paint. It’s also the most expensive and most crowded.
Beach Strategy
The main beach (Spiaggia Grande) gets packed by 11am. Alternative options:
| Beach | How to Reach | Vibe |
|---|---|---|
| Spiaggia Grande | Main beach, central Positano | Busy but iconic |
| Fornillo Beach | 10-min walk from main beach | Quieter, paid loungers |
| Laurito Beach | Via boat or 20-min walk | Quiet, rocks, restaurant |
| Gavitelli Beach | Boat from Positano port | Quiet, excellent snorkeling |
Where to Eat in Positano
Le Sirenuse (hotel restaurant): Michelin-starred, €150+ per person, reservations essential.
Next2 (on the beach): Excellent pizza, €12-18, no reservations, be prepared to wait.
Caffé Positano: Perfect for a limoncello spritz (€8-10) while watching the sunset from the beachfront terrace.
Amalfi Town: The Historical Center
Amalfi is the largest town on the coast and the historic maritime republic that once rivaled Genoa and Venice. Today it’s more low-key than Positano.
What to See
- Amalfi Cathedral (Duomo di Amalfi): 9th-century cathedral with spectacular staircase leading up from the main square. Free entry to the nave, €3 to climb to the cloister
- Arsenal of the Maritime Republic: Medieval shipyard, now a small museum (€4)
- Paper Museum (Museo della Carta): Amalfi was the first European producer of cotton paper—worth 30 minutes (€4)
- Limoncello factory tour: Many small producers offer free tastings along Via delle Cartiere
Ravello: The Secret Garden
Ravello sits 350 meters above the sea on a promontory—the views from here are arguably more spectacular than anywhere else on the coast. The town is quieter than Positano and Amalfi, with less beach but more gardens.
Must-Sees
Villa Cimbrone Gardens (Giardino dell’Anima):
- Entry: €8
- The “Terrace of Infinity” (Terrazzo dell’Infinito) is the most famous view on the Amalfi Coast—a balustrade overlooking the sea with marble busts on either side
- Best time: Sunset, when the light turns the sea gold
Villa Rufolo Gardens:
- Entry: €5
- Smaller than Villa Cimbrone but with equally dramatic views
- Wagner wrote part of Parsifal here
Ravello Dining
Il Flore di Ravello: Family-run, €25-35 per person, homemade pasta, reservation required.
Mimi’s:€20-30 per person, local crowd, no fuss, great seafood.
Day Trip to Capri
Capri is a 30-minute hydrofoil from Amalfi (€22-28) or Sorrento (€22). It’s become a cruise ship stop, which means the main town (Capri Town) can feel overwhelmed by day-trippers.
What to Prioritize
| Activity | Price | Notes |
|---|---|---|
| Blue Grotto (Grotta Azzurra) | €13 | Sea cave with blue light; queue can be 1+ hours |
| Chairlift to Monte Solaro | €13 | Best views, avoids cruise ship crowds |
| Marina Piccola beach | Free | Quiet beach below the town |
| Anacapri | Free | Quieter town, chairlift to Villa San Michele |
Key tip: Arrive early (first ferry at 7:30am from Amalfi) or stay overnight to see Capri when the day-trippers leave.
Sorrento: The Gateway
Most Amalfi Coast trips start or end in Sorrento, which is on the mainland side of the Bay of Naples. Sorrento is less dramatic than the coast but has better train connections to Naples (40 minutes) and the Circumvesuviana train to Pompeii (30 minutes).
Sorrento Day Trip: Pompeii
From Sorrento’s station, the Circumvesuviana train runs to Pompei Scavi every 30 minutes (€3.20, 35 minutes). Pompeii archaeological site entry is €18 (free first Sunday of each month). Plan 3-4 hours for a thorough visit.
Budget (7 days Amalfi Coast, 2 people)
| Item | Cost (€) |
|---|---|
| Accommodation (6 nights, mix) | €900-1,500 |
| SITA buses (5 days) | €30 |
| Private driver (1 day) | €200 (split) |
| Capri day trip (ferry + chairlift) | €100 (split) |
| Pompeii day trip | €40 |
| Meals | €400-600 |
| Villa entries | €40 |
| Total | €1,710-2,510 |
Practical Information
| Item | Info |
|---|---|
| Language | Italian, English in tourist areas |
| Currency | Euro (EUR) |
| Best months | April-June, September-October |
| Summer | July-August: crowded, hot (30°C+), accommodation 2x price |
| Parking | Nearly impossible in summer; use driver or bus |
| Roads | SS163 is narrow; mountain driving experience essential if self-driving |
| Tipping | Not expected; round up for good service |
The Takeaway
The Amalfi Coast is simultaneously more beautiful and more crowded than you imagine. The photos don’t lie about the beauty, but they don’t show the tour buses lining the road or the cruise ship passengers flooding Positano’s beach at noon. Go off-season (May or October), stay in Ravello for the views and quiet, use the bus to get around, and save a day for Capri when the cruise ships leave. Then the Amalfi Coast reveals what made the Grand Tourists never want to leave.
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