Bottom Line: Tram 28 is Lisbon’s most iconic and most pickpocketed experience—the bright yellow carriage rattles through the city’s steepest streets, from Alfama to Baixa, and the crowds on board match the locals. Ride it early morning (8am) for the authentic experience; avoid the afternoon tourist crush. And yes, the pastéis de nata at Antiga Confeitaria de Belém are worth the 20-minute detour.
Lisbon sits on seven hills, which is why the tram system was built in the first place. Tram 28 is the classic route—it winds through Alfama, Graça, Mouraria, and Baixa, climbing steep cobblestone streets that buses can’t handle. It’s both a working public transport line and a tourist attraction.
The Tram 28 Route
Route: Martim Moniz → Alfama → Graça → Baixa → Campo de Ourique → Pra坑s
Key stops:
- Martim Moniz: Starting point, closest to downtown
- Senhora do Monte / Graça: Miradouro da Senhora do Monte, the best viewpoint in Lisbon
- Portas do Sol: Overlooks Alfama, iconic photo spot
- Terreiro do Trigo: Near São Jorge Castle
- Pra坑s: End of the line, near the Time Out Market
Frequency: Every 10-15 minutes, 6am-midnight Cost: €3.10 for a single ride ( Viva 卡 or cash on board)
How to Ride Without Getting Pickpocketed
This needs to be said clearly: Tram 28 has a serious pickpocket problem.
Protection tips:
- Backpack on front
- Wallet in front pocket
- Don’t hold phone out the window for photos (wait until you’re at a stop)
- Morning rides (7-9am) have fewer tourists and more locals watching
- Consider taking photos from the stop rather than the tram
Beyond Tram 28: Miradouros (Viewpoints)
Lisbon has dozens of viewpoints scattered across its hills. Here are the essential ones:
Miradouro da Senhora do Monte (Graça)
The best view in Lisbon—São Jorge Castle in foreground, red rooftops stretching to the Tagus River. Sunset is magical.
- How to get: Take Tram 28 to Graça, then walk 5 minutes uphill
- Cost: Free
- Tip: Arrive 30 minutes before sunset
Miradouro da Portas do Sol
The classic Alfama view—whitewashed houses stacked against the hillside, church domes in the middle distance.
- How to get: Tram 28 stop “Portas do Sol”
- Cost: Free
Miradouro da Lua (Intifada)
Lisbon’s most romantic name for a viewpoint (Sunset Miradouro). Smaller, quieter than others.
The Alfama District
Lisbon’s oldest neighborhood—narrow medieval streets that survived the 1755 earthquake. It’s where fado (Portuguese melancholy music) originated.
What to do:
- São Jorge Castle: €10 entry, 360-degree views from the walls
- Lisbon Cathedral (Sé): €5 entry, Romanesque architecture
- Fado museum: €8 entry, history of Portuguese melancholy music
Book São Jorge Castle + tram combo ticket via Tiqets—€15 instead of buying separately.
Pastéis de Nata: The Definitive Guide
Portugal’s most famous pastry. Here’s where to eat them:
-
Antiga Confeitaria de Belém (Belém district)
- The original, since 1837
- Pastéis de Nata: €1.40 each
- The secret: egg cream custard with caramelized sugar crust
- Go early or queue 20+ minutes
-
Manteigaria (Rua do Loreto)
- Modern bakery, no-frills, €1.10 each
- Less queue than Belém, arguably just as good
-
Po坑s das Donzelas (Alfama)
- Old-school café, cheaper, less touristy
Day Trip: Sintra
30 minutes by train from Lisbon’s Rossio Station (€2.25 one way). Sintra is a fairy-tale town of Romanticist palaces.
Must-see:
- Pena Palace: Colorful 19th-century palace on a hill, €14 entry
- Quinta da Regaleira: Gardens with the famous Initiation Well, €10 entry
- Moorish Castle: UNESCO, medieval walls, €8 entry
Book Sintra day trip (train + Pena Palace + Quinta da Regaleira) via Klook—€55 instead of €30+ for individual tickets.
Budget (3 Days)
| Item | Cost (EUR) |
|---|---|
| Accommodation (2 nights, hostel/hotel) | €60-120 |
| Tram 28 rides | €6-10 |
| São Jorge Castle | €10 |
| Sintra day trip | €55 |
| Food ($25-40/day) | €50-80 |
| Total per person | €181-275 |
Getting Around
- Metro: €1.80-2.30/ride, Viva 卡 recommended
- Trams: €3.10 for tram 28, €2.85 for other trams
- Uber/Bolt: Cheaper than taxis, €5-10 around town
- Walking: Lisbon is very walkable if your legs are good
Best Time
| Season | Weather | Crowds | Price |
|---|---|---|---|
| Mar-May | Perfect (15-22°C) | Moderate | Moderate |
| Jun-Aug | Hot (25-35°C) | High | High |
| Sep-Nov | Warm (18-25°C) | Low | Low |
| Dec-Feb | Cool (10-15°C) | Low | Lowest |
eSIM
Portugal 4G is excellent. EU travelers: roaming free. Non-EU:
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