Bottom line: Vietnam is the best-value country in Southeast Asia right now—€3 banh mi, €5 craft beer, €10 massage, €15 luxury hotel in Hoi An. Ha Long Bay 2D1N cruise €80-120/person via Klook for €75. The Reun EXPRESS train from Hanoi to HCMC (30 hours, €40-60 for a sleeper bunk) is one of the world’s great train journeys.
Vietnam is 1,650km of coastline, motorbike highways, ancient towns, and the world’s best street food. From the chaotic energy of Hanoi to the French-colonial elegance of Hoi An to the motorcycle chaos of Ho Chi Minh City—Vietnam is intense, beautiful, and almost impossible to stop eating in.
Days 1-3: Hanoi (The North)
The Old Quarter
Hanoi’s 36 streets of the Old Quarter were each named after the goods they sold—Silk Street, Paper Street, Iron Street. Now the names are historical remnants and the streets sell everything touristy, but the energy is unmatched.
Must-do Hanoi experiences:
- Egg coffee at Giang Cafe: The birthplace of Vietnamese egg coffee (condensed milk + whipped egg yolk), €1.5. This is where Vogue wrote a story about it.
- Bun cha Obama: The small restaurant where Obama ate bun cha with Anthony Bourdain. Still run by the same family, €3 bowl.
- Train Street: The narrow street where trains pass within meters of houses, now has café seats on the tracks. €2 coffee, trains at 3pm and 7pm.
Hoan Kiem Lake
The heart of Hanoi, free, always open. Locals do tai chi at 6am, joggers at noon, couples at sunset. The Turtle Tower in the middle of the lake is the city’s symbol.
Street Food Strategy
Hanoi has some of the world’s best street food. You don’t need a restaurant.
Must-try street foods:
- Banh mi ($0.8-2): Baguette with pork, pate, pickled vegetables. Banh Mi 25 (25 Hang Ca) is the tourist classic; Banh Mi Pho (86 Hang Ga) is more local.
- Pho ($1-3): The noodle soup Hanoi does better than anywhere. Pho 10 Ly (10 Ly Thai To) is consistently rated #1.
- Bun cha ($2-3): Grilled pork patties with noodles, mint, and dipping sauce. Best at Bun Cha Huong Lien (eliminated above).
Days 4-5: Ha Long Bay Cruise
The UNESCO World Heritage site with 1,969 limestone karsts rising from emerald water. Most dramatic in fog.
Options:
- 2D1N cruise (most popular): €80-120/person. Overnight on the boat, includes meals and kayaking.
- Day cruise: €45-65/person, rushed but workable if short on time
- Luxury cruise: €150-250/person, newer boats, private balconies, better food
Book via Klook for €75 vs. €90+ direct. Budget cruises are fine—most visit the same caves and kayaking spots.
What to expect: Wake up in the bay, kayak through floating fishing villages, explore Sung Sot Cave (the biggest cave, enormous), watch sunset from the sundeck.
Days 6-7: Hoi An Ancient Town
A perfectly preserved 15th-century trading port with French colonial and Chinese influences. Everything is yellow-walled, lantern-lit, and unbearably photogenic.
What to do:
- Walk the Ancient Town (free to enter, €5 to visit the historic houses): After 5pm the streets close to traffic and light up with silk lanterns
- Tailor made clothes: Get a custom suit or dress made in 24 hours. €30-80 for a suit, €15-25 for a dress. Be sure you know your tailor’s reputation.
- My Son Sanctuary: Hindu temple complex, UNESCO, 45 minutes from Hoi An. Book via Klook for €25 including transport.
- Coconut boat ride: €5/person, bamboo boats through coconut groves, slightly touristy but genuinely relaxing
Eat: White Rose (dumplings, €3), Cao Lau (noodles with pork, €2), Fried wonton (€1). All three exist only in Hoi An.
Days 8-9: Ho Chi Minh City (Saigon)
Vietnam’s largest city, still called Saigon by locals. Less romantic than Hanoi but with better cocktails, nightlife, and museums.
What to do:
- War Remnants Museum: €1, gut-wrenching documentation of the Vietnam War from the Vietnamese perspective. Essential.
- Ben Thanh Market: Covered market, everything from fake Rolex to fresh dragon fruit. Best for photos and pho at 6am.
- Bitexco Skydeck: €20 to see the whole city from above, or go to the Eon Heli Bar (free) at 50 floors for the same view.
Nightlife: Bui Vien Walking Street (Backpacker Street) is the most famous, cheapest beer in Vietnam (€0.30 for Bia Hoi, the draft stuff). For better cocktails, try Bia ơi or The Alley.
The Reun Express: Hanoi to HCMC by Train
One of the world’s great train journeys. The Reun Express covers 1,726km in 30-40 hours depending on the train.
Options:
- Hard sleeper (€35-45): Metal bunk beds, 6 berths per compartment
- Soft sleeper (€50-70): 4 berths per compartment, better mattresses, power outlets
- Private cabin (€100+): Two berths, air-conditioned, more comfortable
Book via Klook for reliable seat selection. The train is romantic, scenic (passes rice paddies, karsts, coast), and cheaper than flying once you factor in airport transfer.
Budget Breakdown (10 Days, 2 People)
| Item | Cost |
|---|---|
| Accommodation (mix, €15-60/night) | €150-600 |
| Ha Long Bay cruise | €150 |
| Transport (train + bus + internal flights) | €150-300 |
| Food (€10-20/day/person) | €200-400 |
| Activities and entrances | €100-200 |
| Motorbike rental (3 days) | €30-50 |
| Total | €780-1750/person |
Practical Tips
- SIM card: Grab a Viettel or Vinaphone SIM at the airport (€5 for 10GB). Coverage is excellent.
- Visa: Most nationalities need a visa. E-visa via official government website ($25). Use Airalo eSIM for data.
- Cash: Many places don’t accept cards outside cities. Carry €100-200 in cash for smaller towns.
- Bargaining: Always bargain. Start at 50% of asking price and work up.
What to Eat
- Banh mi ($0.80-2): The best sandwich in the world
- Pho ($1-3): Hanoi version vs. Saigon version—try both
- Goi cuon ($1): Fresh spring rolls, best in summer
- Ca Phe trung ($1.5): Vietnamese egg coffee with condensed milk
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